Sip slow, savour life

There’s no perfect formula for consistent happiness, but the multi-sensory experience triggered by popping the cork, unleashes the very pleasant sensation of being completely at ease, thinking, as the saying goes, wine flies when you’re having fun.

It’s a pity no one’s talking about Drops of God, the subtly cerebral and highly entertaining Apple TV series centered around connoisseurs of wine. Expansive in scope, this lushly shot drama moves seamlessly between French, Japanese and English, encompassing the picturesque vineyards of Italy and the sleek architecture of Tokyo. For anyone seeking a break from the stressful present of war and scarcity, it’s wonderful to be transported to the dreamy world of vintages, and the considerable charms and rituals involved in appreciating a good wine. Drops of God begins with the death of an influential French wine critic who leaves behind an 87,000-bottle cellar and a complicated will. His estranged daughter is pitted against his protege. To stake a claim to his estate, they need to clear tests that range from identifying obscure heritage wines, to finding clues from a mysterious painting.

Whether the discoveries and pleasures of savouring alcohol are capable of deeper meaning depends on our individual experiences. Anyone who has, on occasion, given in to the quiet manipulation of the senses brought on by spirits knows the value of being aroused to a relaxed state of convivial bonhomie. And, if this most reliable social lubricant, instead, brings on a measure of contemplation inaccessible otherwise, that’s a pretty good outcome too. But Drops of God is no ode to frivolous boozing. Hovering between gravity and mockery, it hides under its layered storyline, a highly civilised philosophy of the grand human endeavour to lead a good life. It seems to say, surviving the serious business of living needs precious moments of levity; so why not embrace a flight of imagination and see the entire enterprise of wine making and tasting through a mildly intellectual and rose-tinted lens?

During the pandemic, there was a startling resurgence of interest in historical dramas. People found solace amid the unfolding crisis by losing themselves in lavish scenarios of palaces, ball gowns and dukedoms. Somehow, a hark back to a genteel era, where nothing bad ostensibly happens, feels consoling whenever there’s chaos. We read literature and watch shows for many reasons: to find ourselves, to see situations and lives we couldn’t otherwise imagine and yes, occasionally, to escape our current reality. Does the kind of escape we choose matter? If, at a particular junction, someone is nostalgic for an idealised past and a society that strictly adhered to conventional values, getting caught up in what’s highbrow or lowbrow is pointless. When hostility and strife abound in the outer environment with no sign of abating, being entertained wins out over chasing superficial refinement.

In our imaginations, the world of wine conjures up images of haughty snobbery and pretension. By centering Drops of God around a contest, the protagonists feel deeply human, struggling, like the rest of us figuring out work futures and romantic possibilities. Scrubbed clean of the inherent artifice associated with wine aficionados, the show makes a (romantic) point by emphasising historical vintages be damned, the real value of cracking open a bottle is that it creates joy by bringing people together. If the powerful aroma of an old Burgundy or the divine, earthly fragrance of a fresh Chablis helps us connect with our fellow travellers on earth, what’s left to say other than, cheers? It turns out, just watching somebody sipping an organic Chianti in a magical Tuscan setting triggers the slow-down effect. Our fast paced existence runs totally contrary to the tenets of wine appreciation — mainly, staying present while swirling, inhaling and sipping. There’s no perfect formula for consistent happiness, but the multi-sensory experience triggered by popping the cork, unleashes the very pleasant sensation of being completely at ease, thinking, as the saying goes, wine flies when you’re having fun.

The writer is director, Hutkay Films